AFRICA:  PHOTOGRAPHING ON SAFARI


Being a good wildlife photographer involves a combination of patience and quickness of hand. Wait for the shots you want and be prepared to put in plenty of time, sometimes in the hot sun, if you want outstanding pictures. 

Fingerprints or dust on your lens can effectively spoil your shots. 

Bring a blower brush, lens cleaning fluid and lens tissue. 

Always ask permission before taking photos of other people and always be considerate of anyone's wish not to be photographed. 

With regard to film, no matter what kind of equipment you use, we strongly recommend that you buy all your film before you leave.

Much has been written about whether airport X-ray machines damage film. Invest in a lead-lined "Film Shield" bag, and always ask customs inspectors to check your camera equipment by hand. It is absolutely essential that your cameras be protected from vibration and dust. We strongly recommend a foam-lined camera bag on the floor of a moving vehicle; the vibration may loosen screws or otherwise cause damage. Leave your cameras on a vacant seat or carry them on your lap. And bring a supply of plastic bags and rubber bands to keep dust off.

FILM 

Film is expensive in Africa. We strongly recommend that you buy all your film before you leave. When photographing Africans, remember that dark skins reflect very little light, so do open the aperture by at least on stop. The advice of your driver should be sought before photographing local people. While some Masai eagerly pose for shots, others believe that their souls will be stolen if their pictures are taken. And it is also against the law to take pictures of the Masai. Frequent stops are made for close-up shots of animals and birds. Camera supports are unnecessary since picture taking is done from inside the safari buses. However, a bean bag is useful to steady the lens. The sunroofs in the mini-buses will enable you to stand for shots, and the lighting at the game lodges is perfect for evening photography. Your camera when not in use should be protected by a dust-proof bag.

Here is a list of the minimum "necessities" you will need to have with you:

Minimum of 12 to 15 rolls of film 2 lenses (50 mm and zoom) lens tissue dust-off extra batteries film type 30% fast (400) 70% asa 64/100 camera bag skylight filter A polarized filter can be helpful to the experienced photographer.

KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT ON SAFARI 

The first rule is NEVER to go on safari with camera equipment that is new to you. All too often we have seen people wrestling with cameras and lenses that were too big, too heavy or too complicated, and as a result losing good pictures. It is much better to have equipment that can be used readily than to spend a lot of money for apparatus whose operation you can’t understand. Bring along everything you need, and don’t count on being able to rent or replace any items in Africa. 

Far and away the most appropriate and flexible kind of camera for safari photography is the 35mm single lens reflex. It is hand-holdable, accepts different lenses and displays in the viewfinder an image close to what the final print or slide will look like. The camera should have a built-in light meter for easy exposure setting. All newer models offer automatic exposure, which is controversial; many pros prefer to make all adjustments manually. However, you will find that you will be able to expose about 80 percent of your pictures with the camera set on automatic, and that often saves valuable time when trying to get a picture in a hurry.

VIDEO EQUIPMENT: A safari is a very "photogenic" experience, and if you carry a video recorder, you are sure to be well rewarded. Bring equipment as light in weight as possible. The only problem arises with battery power. Most minibuses have cigarette lighters that, with the appropriate adapter, may be used for operating your camera. However, it is possible that several people may want to use the lighter simultaneously! It may not always be possible to recharge batteries at the game lodges. Where possible, you will need an adapter for 220-240 volt current, along with converters for two-pin round and three-pin square plugs. Perhaps the best thing possible to bring with you enough fresh batteries to last the entire trip, although that may be a bulky and costly solution.

OTHER USEFUL DEVICES: If you are serious about your photography or would be heartbroken if you were to miss out on any photo opportunities, you might want to consider bringing a second camera, preferably of the same model as your first one, or at least accepting the same lenses. It is most unlikely that you would be able to have any major camera repair done quickly while you are on safari. Another advantage of a second camera is being able to keep a second type of film and another lens ready for use at all times. A jeweler’s screwdriver is also very handy for performing minor repairs along the way!

PHOTO TECHNIQUE 

Be as ready as possible to shoot. That means presetting your camera as closely as possible to what is the most likely focus and exposure. If your camera has automatic exposure, leave it set on automatic unless you are sure that conditions warrant otherwise. Once again, it is vital that you be thoroughly familiar with your camera so that you don’t have to fumble with it at the critical moment. 

Be generous in your use of film. If you see something that is especially worth photographing, take several pictures. Try several different exposures because too often, film comes back scratched or spoiled in some way. Or you may send your film in to have prints made and gave it either lost or damaged. If this should happen, you will then always have another copy.

When using telephoto lenses, try as hard as possible to minimize camera vibration. Make sure your driver switches off the engine of your vehicle. Prop the camera up on a window ledge or on the roof, using if possible a bean bag, and use fast shutter speeds. Practice releasing the shutter without jarring the camera. The classic rule of thumb is that you should not try to hand-hold a camera at a shutter speed slower than the inverse of the focal length of your lens. Translated into English, that means that if you are using a lens of 200mm, you should use a shutter speed of 1/20, 1/500 or faster. If you are using a 50mm lens, you can manage with a shutter speed of 1/60, 1/125 or faster.

Be aware of the angle from which the sunlight is coming. Most of your shots will look best if the sun is behind you and your camera, and the subject directly illuminated. Your driver will be aware of this and try to position the vehicle at the best possible angle. But you may want to try for unusual effects such as backlighting: if you do, make sure you know how to set your camera’s exposure meter so that it isn’t fooled by the extraneous light in the background. Even though you will make frequent use of the roof hatch of your vehicle, don’t neglect the view from the windows. A lower angle of view may allow a more dramatic view of, for example, a large animal like a giraffe or elephant.

The knack of photographic composition is to some extent un-teachable, but before you leave on safari you might want to study some books of wildlife photography to see what makes for good pictures. One thing the great photographers have in common is a feel for the context in which animals occur. They often include in the frame something of the landscape and background.

LENSES 

A telephoto lens is a necessity for wildlife photography. The newer telephoto zoom lenses are virtually as good in quality as fixed focal length lenses, and I recommend them highly for their flexibility. It is possible to get so close to animals such as lions that a fixed lens of 200mm is actually too long: with the zoom you simply adjust the lens. The appropriate focal length for a telephoto zoom is in the range of approximately 80-200mm. A super-long telephoto lens of 400mm or more is not necessary, unless you are a very experienced photographer with a keen interest in photographing birds. Long lenses are unwieldy, hard to focus, and call for a steady and experienced hand.

Protect your lenses by putting a filter over each one. A 1A Skylight or UV filter does not cut down the light and is useful in screening out haze. And if anything should hit the lens, you would certainly prefer to damage a $10 filter than an expensive lens. Simply leave a filter permanently attached to each of your lenses! You will probably not need any other filters except, if you are so inclined, for a polarizing filter to make clouds stand out vividly. It is essential to put shades on your lenses, since glare can all too easily ruin your pictures. This is particularly true for telephoto lenses; some of the longer ones come with built-in hoods.

KEEP YOUR CAMERA AND LENSES CLEAN! Check your equipment frequently to be sure it is clean. It is painful to see someone who has spent a small fortune on equipment taking pictures through smudged lenses. Sprays such as "Dust Off" are very handy and take up very little space (but be sure not to use them on the mirror of your camera). "Q-tips" are also useful in cleaning in the nooks and crannies. A compact electronic flash is a necessity for taking pictures at your lodge or camp at night, or indoors. Although Treetops, The Ark and Mountain Lodge frown on the use of flash, it is sometimes permissible if the animals in question have been at the water hole for a while and every one has had a good look: but you should in any case fully understand how to use your flash before you leave.

ETIQUETTE - SUGGESTIONS 

Always ask permission before taking photos of other people and always be considerate of anyone's wish not to be photographed. Under no circumstances take pictures of airports, government buildings and installations or of military compounds and personnel. Taking photos where permission is not granted can result, at best, in confiscation of your film. Please be also conscious that you will be with other people, as eager as you are to take the greatest photo of their life.

Share the best views with other fellow passengers and do not disturb their pleasure by making unnecessary noises, creating a commotion, or impeding their view and picture taking. Do not stand up suddenly in the vehicle as this may cause a subject to take flight before anyone has the time to photograph it

USEFUL SUGGESTIONS:

Always check that you reset your ASA setting to the specifications of the film you are using Rest your camera in a position that provides a firm base when taking a picture (a bean-bag is very useful here) Pictures taken from the roof-hatch, even if beautiful, may not make as much of an imposing portrait as the picture taken at eye level from a window Be sure you know how to operate your camera and are familiar with all aspects of it Compose your picture taking into consideration the background Please take time BEFORE YOU DEPART, to learn about shutter speed and depth of focus in order to take the best possible shots under any circumstances