BRAZIL: THE NORTH EAST
The
Golden Coast - The Brazilian northeast contains nine
states: Alagoas, Bahia, Ceara, Maranhao, Paraiba,
Pernambuco, Piaui, Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe,
and one territory, the Fernando de Noronha
island. All
of these states of the Golden Coast are bathed by
the Atlantic Ocean along their 3,500 kilometers
(2,175 miles) of palm-fringed, sandy-white beaches
blessed by a continuous summer climate and the
never ceasing delightful swing of the typical "forro",
"frevo", "ciranda", " maracatu" and
"lambada" dances. There are lively beaches, deserted beaches, beaches with dunes, beaches with colored sands, all sorts of beaches and all of them are blessed with warm waters, a clear sky and sunshine all year
round.
Brazil's colonization began in the Northeast, more specifically, in what is now the state of Bahia. The area's fast economic activity was the exportation of a type of red wood known as brazilwood used in making dyes, hence the name Brazil. The Northeast was still the dominant region in the new colony during the sugar cane cycle when millions of African slaves were brought to Brazil to work on the plantations. The Northeast is today a region rich in folklore and tradition. The people and the culture are an inextricable mixture of Portuguese, African, Dutch and French origins tempered with the strength and beauty of their own environment.
SALVADOR, BAHIA
The city of Salvador is the capital of the state of Bahia and was also Brazil's capital until 1763. It is divided into two parts. The
"Lower City" is at sea level and contains the old port and the
commercial district where visitors will find a complete and varied assortment of Brazilian arts and crafts at the Mercado
Modelo. A familiar sight at the Mercado Modelo is the
"baiana", usually an older woman dressed in the traditional white, pleated
dresses of colonial Bahia who sells coconut sweets and spicy
"vatapas", "acarajes" and "xinxins" from a tray that she carries to the market on her head. The
"Lower City" is also the best place to witness a demonstration of
"capoeira", a martial art developed by African slaves in Brazil, originally as a form of combat and later as a type of dance and
folkloric tradition. Practitioners compete to the rhythm of the
"berimbaus", a local percussion instrument made with a wire cord stretched tight across a wooden bow.
The "Upper City" can be reached by stone steps, alleyways or the famous Lacerda Elevator. This part of the city contains the old government buildings, the residential districts, museums, churches and much of the newer
architecture.
Salvador is said to have 365 churches, one for each day of the year. That is something of an exaggeration, but the number and variety of churches in the city is truly amazing. All of them are impressive and historically significant, and each one is distinctly different from the others. With so many-churches in the city, it is only natural that some of them have been turned into wonderful museums. Bahia is also the stronghold of the Candomble religion in Brazil. Candomble is a spiritualist sect derived from the fusion of African rites with Catholic symbols. Salvador has many "terreiros" (sites for Candombli rituals), and "pais de santo" (Candomble priests) are respected in their local communities.
Recife is known as the "Brazilian Venice" because of its many canals and waterways and the innumerable bridges that span them. The name "Recife" comes from the barrier reef ("arrecife" in Portuguese) that protects the city's beautiful beaches: they say the sun shines brighter in Recife than anywhere else, and Recife's beaches are undoubtedly among the loveliest in the Northeast. Recife is also an important center of culture and folklore. It is famous for its music and rhythms ("frevo", "maracatu" and "xaxado"), its festivals ("bacamarteiros" and "cavalhada"), its folkloric celebrations ("reisado", "bumba-meu-boi" and "xango") and its arts and crafts. Olinda is a small, charming town built on low hills just four miles from Recife. Its architecture is a fascinating portrait of Brazil's colonial period. Mansions that once belonged to plantation owners stand beside centuries-old churches and public buildings.
Caruaru - 83 miles west of Recife is Caruaru, a town where nearly everyone is an artist. According to UNESCO, Caruaru is the largest center of folk art in the Americas. Its streets are filled with markets and bazaars offering creative works in leather, ceramic, wood, straw and metal as well as the famous "Mestre Vitalino" statuettes and figures made with red clay. Each year during Easter Week, dozens of actors and literally hundreds of extras take part in an open-air theatrical performance depicting the Passion of Christ. The Passion Play takes place in nearby Fazenda Nova in the area known as Nova Jerusalem (a scale replica of Jerusalem at the time of Christ). Also in Fazenda Nova is the Monumental Stone Sculpture Park, the largest outdoor museum in the world.
500 miles northwest of Recife is
Fortaleza, capital of the state of
Ceara. It is a large, modern city where bold, new architecture contrasts with beautiful beaches and tall coconut palms. On the beaches, visitors can see typical
"jangadeiros" (fishermen) who take to the sea in their rugged
"jangadas" (crude sailing rafts traditionally used for fishing in the region). The
"jangadeiro's" daily struggle against the wind and waves is one of the most
fascinating adventures in the Northeast. On the shore, their wives patiently produce the delicate lace and embroidery for which Ceara's artisans are famous.
There are many other sights in the city as well, including Jose
de Alencar Theater, built in an art nouveau style. Ubajara National Park's 1,393 acres are only a few hours from
Fortaleza, on the border between the states of Ceara and
Piauf.
Sao Luis, capital of the state of
Maranhao, was founded by the French in 1612. The old part of the city is a treasure of French and Portuguese colonial
architecture. The facades of the houses are decorated with colorful ceramic tiles, and many display wrought-iron balconies, carved wooden doors and stone courtyards.
The city is located 283 miles from Teresina and 525 miles from Belem on the island of
Sao Luis. Across from the island, on the mainland, is the town of
Alcantara. This former provincial capital was built in the early 17th century.
Sao Luis today is an enchanting city, virtually a page out of history.