Bulgaria is "Old Europe," with twisty cobblestone streets, tile-roofed houses, a Roman amphitheater here, a Crusader's bastion there and medieval monasteries amid farms and industrial centers. Bulgaria was the jewel in the Thracian crown, one of Rome's most important colonies and the pride of Byzantium. Today it is an exciting country. Bulgaria is known for its well-preserved folklore. Try a dinner out at a folk tavern with live song and dance, and sample the acclaimed local red wine. The opera and ballet are famous all over Europe. Bulgaria supplies 80 percent of the rose essence for the world's perfume industries from the 50-mile "Valley of Roses."

Sofia has been called "the Paris of the Balkans" because of its broad boulevards, openair cafes, large parks, upscale shopping, nightlife and grand buildings. The 5,000year-old capital is situated at the foot of Mount Vitosha. Major attractions include the Central Department Store, the bustling Central Market and large public mineral baths. The pedestrian part of Vitosha Boulevard has many small shops and eateries. Sveti Georgi Church, which dates back 1,600 years, and the crypt in the Alexander Nevski Cathedral are important sites. St. Sofia, which dates from the 6th century, is the city's most famous church.

Some highlights

Plovdiv is a thousand years older than Sofia and is Bulgaria's second-largest city. Visitors can view 4th-century B.C. Thracian wall paintings, the Roman amphitheater, Byzantine and medieval fortifications and 15th-century Ottoman mosques.

Veliko Turnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185-1396). Built on two steep hills above the Yantra river, a fortress gate provides the only access to the summit. Frescoes adorn the massive walls and towers. Here also are the medieval district of Asenov, the tower of the Crusader Baldwin of Flanders and the 14th-century Preobrazensky Monastery.

Koprivshititsa is a unique museuni town where the atmosphere of the National Revival Period (18th-19th centuries) is preserved.

Melnik is set amidst sandstone pyramids in the southern mountain country and is known for its underground cellars, its wine and its churches and murals.

Nessebur, one of the oldest settlements in the Balkans, is situated on a rocky Black Sea peninsula. Noted for its handsome villas, 40 ancient churches.

Black Sea resorts run along 130 miles of coastline and include Albena, Golden Sands, Drouzhba and Sunny Beach. You'll find health spas, resorts, deluxe hotels.

Borovets, a mountain resort 40 miles out of Sofia, has been the site of many ski competitions, including the World Cup,

National History Museum, Sofia. Houses 4th-century B.C. Panagjurishte gold collection of jewelry, ornaments and dinnerware, as well as Thracian treasures.

Rile Monastery (10th century), 70 miles south of Sofia. In a spectacular mountain setting, it is guarded by stone gates, and has sunlit verandas.

Bachkovo Monastery, near Plovdiv. Founded in 1083, the monastery contains 11th-century murals. Nearby are the Archangel St. Michael Church (12th century) and theChurch of the HolyVirgin (17thcentury).