CHILE: THE CENTRAL REGION
The
Central Valley is the heart of Chile and the classical geography of
Chile reappears here: the mountain range of the Coast, the
depression called “Valle Central” (Central Valley), limited to
the East by the Andes Mountains.
Santiago is immense, its central core, however, is manageable and relatively small - a roughly triangular area bounded by the Rio Mapocho on the north. It is a city of grand thoroughfares and plazas, lined with public buildings and churches and circled by parks. The grid town plan imposed by the Spanish, however, is conducive to traffic jams and pollution. Santiago Information
The sister cities of Valparaiso and Viña del Mar, built on steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific, hold distinct attractions for the tourist. The former with its colorful, imaginative hillside architecture; the latter -dubbed the garden city- with elegant hotels, an active night life, a number of well- frequented beaches and a popular song festival.
South of Valparaiso, in the village of Isla Negra, sits the house of Pablo Neruda. Built by the poet himself, the house is chock full of objects collected during his forays around the globe. Among the numerous family-oriented resorts to the south, Algarrobo and Rocas de Santo Domingo deserve mention. In the latter, lovely white dunes provide an interesting contrast with the black sands of the seemingly endless beach, ideal for walking or horseback riding.
To the north lies a string of exquisite, less crowded coastal resorts. To the south, a series of beach towns favored by "santiaguinos" for their summer vacations. Beyond San Antonio, Chile's second busiest seaport, is classy Santo Domingo.
A coastal highway threads together the string of coastal towns and fishing villages that dot this fascinating and varied coastline. Towards the north is Zapallar, Chile's most exclusive summer coastal retreat, with its sheltered, horseshoe-shaped beach surrounded by forested hillsides, where Swiss- and Tyrolean-style mansions rub elbows with more modern constructions reminiscent of Beverly Hills, all with exuberant, manicured gardens. Just south is Cachagua, with quaint straw-roofed houses and a long, open beach, ideal for long walks or horseback riding. Cachagua's waves attract surfers from the capital, while an offshore island with a colony of Humboldt penguins is a draw for nature-lovers.
Continuing south you reach Marbella, an elegant resort with a golf course, 5-star hotel, and excellent restaurants, and then Maitencillo, with several small beaches and one large one backed with steep cliffs, frequented by para-gliders riding the updraft. Upon crossing the mouth of the Aconcagua rivers one arrives in Concon, with good, inexpensive seafood restaurants. From here, the route snakes along the rocky shoreline, passing by several small beaches, en route to Renaca, one of the central coast's most stylish destinations. Below the rank and file of condominiums and department buildings hugging the steep dunes, Renaca's shores are the premier destination for young beachgoers from far and wide.Skiing and Alpine Sports - The Andean slopes are renowned among skiers across the globe, and the central region sports five main ski areas, all with excellent slopes and facilities. Above the Mapocho river valley are Colorado and Farellones [9], at just 32 km from Santiago, followed by La Parva (elevation 2650m), and Valle Nevado (3000m). Further afield, on the banks of a massive high Andean lake, is Portillo, a boutique among ski resorts and site of several speed-skiing records. Unique Termas de Chillan, 480 krn south of the capital, combines a thermal spa and skiing on the slopes of a volcano, with excellent off-piste terrain and snowboard park. South of Chillan, another half-dozen ski areas offer singular skiing experiences on active volcanoes. The central region is also a paradise for mountaineers, with opportunities to bag summits above 6,000m (20,000 ft).
Hot-Springs - Equally famous as the peaks of the Andes are the healing thermal waters that well up from beneath them. Hot-springs near Santiago include Termas de Colina, only 30 minutes from the city center; Termas del Corazon, 90 km distant; Jahuel, at 100 krn, north of the Aconcagua river; further south are Termas de Cauquenes, Quinamavida, and Catillo, all in the midst of exuberant vegetation. Throughout the length of the country, you'll never be far from a hot-spring, either in its natural state or with modern facilities.The Cordillera de la Costa (Coast Range) - 400 km southeast of Santiago, at the mouth of the Bioblo river, lies the industrial center of Concepcion and Talcahuano. Just north are the beach resorts of Tome and Dichato, while to the south a road leads along the strip of land between the Cordillera de la Costa and the seashore, passing the country's premier carbon deposits. The road continues through vast pine plantations to Lake Lanalhue, one of the south's least developed lakes, then turns east, crossing the Cordillera de la Costa near Nahuelbuta National Park, a reserve of the araucaria and the copihue, Chile's national flower. Finally the highway rejoins the Pan-American highway by Victoria, near the northern edge of the lake district.
Vineyards - In Chile's central valley grow the finest rootstock, brought from Europe generations ago, including many varieties extinguished in the old world by the 19th century phylloxera louse plague. In recent years Chile has dedicated itself specifically to the creation of fine wines for export. Almost all the principal vineyards lead tours through well-kept grounds; the best-known of these include Concha y Toro, founded in 1863 and today Chile's largest, and Santa Rita, which has recently received gold medals in international competitions. Near Santiago, the Undurraga and Cousino Macul vineyards also merit a visit.Country Tours - The central valley, Chile's cultural backbone, continues in varying shades of green all the way to Puerto Montt. Poplar-lined country roads, growing cities, sleepy villages, and the eternal backdrop of the Andes are the landmarks of this fragment of country. Just a couple of hours from Santiago lie sectors such as Los Lingues, where colonial-era haciendas, open to visitors, continue to abide by the traditions of the Chilean campo. Land of huasos (peasants), rodeos, and empanadas, this is the agricultural heart of the country.