CHILE: THE LAKE REGION
A
chain of lakes, forests, meadows and snow-covered
volcanoes between the Bio Bio river and the town of Puerto
Montt gives shape to one of the most beautiful landscapes
in the country. This territory, heroically defended by
Mapuche or Araucanian warriors was never subdued by the
Spanish conquistadors. It was pacified in 1881 and settled
by colonists of different nationalities. However, it is
the German colonists, who came to the town of Valdivia in
1850, who have left their imprint on this zone. Their
influence can still be seen in the architecture, the
cuisine and the appearance of small villages, especially
Puerto Octay, Frutillar and Puerto Varas, on the shores of
lake Llanquihue.
The survivors of the Mapuche nation currently live on small reservations close to Temuco and Villarica and on islands in the middle of the lakes, preserving their customs and traditions. In addition to their undeniable tourist attractions, this region has enormous cattle, industrial, fishing and forestry resources. the main towns are Concepcion, Temuco, valdivia, Osorno and Puerto Montt. There are more than thirty lakes of all shapes and sizes, nearly all of them associated with a volcano, between Temuco and Puerto Montt. Hot springs and pools are common in the area around the lakes, and the rivers which drain them are superb for fishing (trout and salmon), or for shooting rapids. The Chilean central valley ends in Puerto Montt, a city settled by German colonists in the mid-19th century, and one of southern Chile's most important cities. It features middle-European architecture, with shingles, high-pitched roofs and ornate balconies. The redwood cathedral on the city's plaza is the city's oldest building, dating from 1856. The city is the transport hub and access point to the southern Lake District, the island of Chiloé and Chilean Patagonia. This attractive port town and growing industrial center offers excellent handi-craft markets, seafood restaurants in Angelmo, and a long coastline with fine hotels, restaurants and a range of services; the city also serves as an excellent base for exploring the southern lake region. From here the gravel Carretera Austral leads to the forests and fjords of Aisen and continues to the heart of Patagonia.
Puerto Montt is also the principal point of departure for maritime voyages to the southern fjords and canals. The luxury liner Skorpios offers trips to Laguna San Rafael, while the catamaran Patagonia Express, en route to this same destination, also stops at the spa-hotel Termas de Puyuhuapi, a site of extraordinary beauty.
Lago Llanquique is the first of the great lakes between Chile and Argentina. With its eastern skyline dominated by the perfect cone of Osorno volcano, this is one of the most popular lakes for summer visitors. Puerto Varas, the largest of the lakeside cities, boasts fine hotels and restaurants, plus the whole range of tourist services. Along the lake's western shore is Frutillar, perhaps the south's most Germanic town, whose renowned "Music Weeks" draws international participants. A lovely route runs along the southern side of the lake, passing numerous beaches; after leaving the lake, the road enters Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, Chile's oldest park and among its most beautiful.
Because of the spectacular natural resources found here, large areas have been declared National parks in order to preserve the remains of native forests which once covered the greater part of southern Chile, including pure stands of the emblematic araucaria, with its unmistakable umbrella shape, and the alerce, a conifer known to reach over 3000 years of age. The natural jungle flowered on this volcanic and porous soil, unique in the world for the quantity and variety of beautiful trees and plants, many of which are at present listed in international botanical studies. Forests of over 2,000 years, the oldest of the planet, housing the Araucaria, a prehistoric conifer is the queen of the heights along with the millenary Alerce (Larch), or great trees that burst into flower like the white Ulmo and the red Notro; or cascades of wild Fuchsias and unique Copihues.
From all around, the volcanoes can be seen on the horizon. These are the highest pinnacles and represent a constant challenge for the most exciting adventures. Enormous masses of lava, most with perfect silhouettes, their cones always crowned with snow. Reaching over 3000 mt in height, some of them issue smoke from the great hole of their craters. When they become active, several of them erupt simultaneously
Chiloe: a world apart. This beautiful archipelago located south of Puerto Montt and linked to the mainland by ferries which cross the Chacao channel, is definitely a world apart. Whether on dry land or in their remarkable boats, the laughing, dark-skinned Chiloe islanders live together with the sea and their fascinating legends. At every turn when one tours the Isla Grande of Chiloe and the numerous small islands which make up the archipelago, one encounters beautifully structured extremely old churches; colorful markets full of sea and agricultural produce, knitted goods, woven baskets, ornaments and thick pure wool blankets; small wooden houses (which can be transported by rolling them from one place to another; ancient palafittes; and thousands of nooks and crannies waiting to be discovered and sailed, and where one can share "curanto" (a local dish consisting of all sorts of shell fish, smoked meats and pork steamed over hot stones sunk into the ground) and the gentle "golden liquor", with the friendliest, most easy-going people you will ever have the joy to meet. The ancient language of the Huilliches is forever remebered in the names of the islands and villages...all places imbued with charm, tradition and legends of life and death.
The Andean Lake Crossing is one of the south's most spectacular trips. Start from Puerto Montt and travel by road to Puerto Varas and along Lake Llanquique's shores to Lake Todos los Santos. Crossing the lake in catamaran, which offers excellent views of the precipitous Volcan Puntiagudo. Disembark in Peulla, ( travelers are put up in a turn-of-the-century Swiss-style hotel for a 2-day crossing, to continue the following day on to Argentina). Continues by boat across Lago Frias, by bus to one of the many arms of the immense Lake Nahuel Huapi, and by another catamaran to Llao Llao. Finally a bus leads to the tourist city of Bariloche, in the heart of the Argentine lake district. Lake Crossing Full Information
Climate: Lots of rain from June to September, with heavy snowfalls in high altitude areas and temperatures fluctuating between 0 and 9 centigrade. Sporadic rain during the rest of the year, with exceptionally hot days in summer (December to March).