GUATEMALA: ARCHAEOLOGICAL GUATEMALA

The World of the Maya has many faces: some of them ancient as found carved on towering temples, others as modern as those of the people who live in Guatemala today. They are the descendants of a mighty Maya people whose customs and traditions are still part of the fabric of Guatemalan life. Guatemala is a showcase of natural history and dramatic landscapes, yet its most distinguishing asset is the rich and colorful traditions of the various ethnic communities, such as K’iche, Kaqchiquel and Achi. Each group has its own language, its special folklore, yet they share a common ancestral heritage as expressed in religion, music, dance, foods and even social organization. While Spanish and Indian cultures integrate into the country’s "mestizaje" the purest of the Maya influences can be found in both the performing and design arts. The handicraft of textiles, in particular, is purely Mayan and a wonderfully colorful, part of the everyday dress. Most archaeologists agree that ancient Guatemala was the cultural center of the New World, and that the storied Mayan civilization, the jewel of that culture, originated in Guatemala. One of the greatest civilizations the world has ever known once centered in what is now Guatemala, extending through-out the nation and into neigh-boring Mexico, Belize, El Salvador and Honduras a region known as Meso-america. 

The Mayan Empire developed about 250 B.C. in the tropical lowlands of northern Guatemala and adjacent Belize reach-ing its peak from about 250 to 900 A.D. Arrival of the Spanish conquistadores in the 16th century spelled the end of the Mayan culture, which had already faded with many of its great cities and monuments deserted. Decline and eventual demise of the Mayan civilization has been variously attributed to war, famine, natural calamity and more obtuse causes, but the real reason is still a mystery, subject only to theory and conjecture. From the magnificent ruins they left behind, archaeologists and scientists have learned much of the warlike and highly complex Maya society. The Maya developed a unique society that boasted a rather complex social, political and scientific structure. Mayan research into the fields of mathematics, astronomy and the measurement of time is truly astonishing. They also developed a hieroglyphic script which has made it possible for modern scholars to interpret and understand their contributions to these disciplines and to Mayan history. Mayan art was equally impressive, as is evidenced by the careful urban planning of their ceremonial centers; their architecture based on the use of terraced pyramids; their sculpture, preserved in altars and historical monuments; the vestiges of their paintings; and in the beauty of their ceremonial pottery, stone and jade.

Literally thousands of archeological sites throughout Guatemala alone have shown the Maya to be a people of great intelligence, determination and ability. While Europe still languished in the Dark Ages, the Maya evolved a calendar equal to that of today. They fully comprehended the theory of mathematics and developed the concept of zero. Mayan astronomers accurately traced the path of planets and predicted solar and lunar eclipses. Hieroglyphic records and iconographs have shed much light. Maya architects established huge pyramids and temples built aqueducts and roads, developed innovative agricultural techniques and irrigation systems. Accomplishments are all the more startling considering that the Maya lacked metal tools and the wheel. Sometimes called the Phoenicians of the new World, the Maya plied the coastal seas in huge canoes piled with trade goods. According to one expert on the period as many as 4, 000 Maya canoes were at sea at any one time during the height of their culture trading in wax, honey, salt, furs, feather, ‘jade and cotton. In the tropical lowlands of Guatemala, the Maya built an agrarian civilization that supported one of the highest population densities in the pre-industrial Americas at least 20 times what it is today. At its peak, the Maya civilization functioned through many states each run by an aristocratic family which claimed descendancy from the Gods and passed ruling power from father to son in the manner of royalty.

One of the principal Maya site in Guatemala was Tikal, now a national park in the Peten region with its immense ceremonial center, soaring pyramids and 50 square miles of city that once had a population estimated at 55,000, 000, Tikal was equal to any world capital of the time, it flourished during the 3rd and 4th Centuries, representing to the New World what Athens was to the Old World: "Birthplace of Civilization". Abandoned by 900 A.D., Tikal lay overgrown by the humid tropical jungle until its ruins were discovered in 1848. It was another 100 years before archaeologists excavated and reconstructed the site which today invites visitors from throughout the world. In 1979 Tikal National Park was declared "Patrimony of Humanity" by UNESCO because its unique combination of rain forest, fauna, flora and archeology. Recent excavations in the area of Tikal have uncovered a complex of structures which predate the existing ruins; archaeologists have named them Mundo Perdido. These structures were probably built during the early Pre-Classical Period (2000 B.C.-250 A.D.).Tikal is only one of the countless architectural sites already uncovered. Other major excavations are at El Mirador and Rio Azul, and experts estimate there are at least as many still undiscovered. 

Other major archaeological excavations include: Uaxactun, with its oldest known stelae, the Pyramid of the Masks, the first observatory, and the oldest known Mayan mural in existence; Naj Tunich, El Mirador and Rio Azul, archaeological sites explored and documented by National Geographic magazine; Ceibal, located by La Pasion River, with its intriguingly carved monuments, dating from the Pre-Classical Period; Quirigua in Izabal with the largest stelae carved by the Mayan civilization, also declared by UNESCO a "World Cultural and Natural Monument"; and Kaminal Juyu in Guatemala City, also of Pre-Classical origin. La Democracia, located in Escuintla, dates back to the oldest period of the Olmec civilization that flourished near the Gulf of Mexico.

Minor archaeological centers of note include Mixco Viejo, the religious center of the Pokoman and Iximche, the old capital of the Cakchiquel kingdom, burnt by the Spaniards in 1525 in order to construct nearby the first site of the colonial capital of Santiago de los Caballeros. El Baul and Las Ilusiones, in Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa, were possibly inhabited by the Pipiles or Cholutecas, of Mexican origin. Zaculeu, of Mam origin, is located in Huehuetenango, and Utatlan, in Quiche, which was the capital of the Quiche kingdom. The sites have provided archaeologists a wealth of material for study and the paintings and glyphs found in the tombs and temples tell the story of a glorious civilization, its religion, social structure, science and the men who ruled it. While the Maya civilization is gone, the descendants of these proud people live on, comprising a substantial part of the nation’s population and protecting their arts, crafts, language and customs.

Tikal national Park

The protected park covers 222 square miles ( 576 square kilometer) amidst the thick, tropical jungle of El Peten is home to 220 resident bird species. Four of the species are considered endangered, including four nesting pairs of the Harpy Eagle. Among the other more dramatic appearing birds seen in the area is the Keelbilled toucan with its bright yellow green, orange, red, white and black coloration and banana like bill. This is also the best area to see the Oscillated Turkey, a close relative to the wild turkey of North America and almost as large. Vivid in color, with a blue featherless head and neck, orange skin flaps and gold body with bronze and aqua highlights. Created in 1958, UNESCO declared the park a "Monument of the World’s Heritage " in 1979. It is regarded as one of the most important cultural and natural reserves in the world. The easiest access to the park is by air. It is just a 20 minute flight from Guatemala City to the airport of Santa Elena. From there you can reach Tikal in 45 minutes over an excellent highway. There are more than 41,000 structures or constructions in Tikal. The oldest date from the Pre-classic period (800 BC), and the most recent from the Post-classic period (900 AD). It was during this period that the Maya attained their artistic, architectural, mathematics, agricultural and commercial heights.   

The most important plazas and temples in Tikal are:   The Great Plaza: The most spectacular structure in Tikal is the plaza surrounded by stelae and sculpted altars, ceremonial buildings, residential and administrative palaces, and a ball court. At each end of the plaza loom the temple of the Great Jaguar and the Temple II. Temple of the Great Jaguar (Temple I): Located on the eastern side of the Great Plaza, it is more than 150 feet in height. The temple was erected about 700 AD by order of Ah Cacao, whose tomb was discovered inside. Temple II: This temple stands at the western end of the Great Plaza and rises to a height of 120 feet. It was also constructed by Ah Cacao around 700 AD. Temple of the Jaguar Priest (Temple III): Rising to 180 feet, and located west of Temple 11, it was constructed around 810 AD. It has a carved lintel, almost intact, depicting a central personage clothed in jaguar skin. Temple of the DoubleHeaded Serpent (Temple IV): At 212 feet, this is the highest standing structure in Tikal. It was built around 470 AD by Yaxkin Caan Chac. Temple V: Constructed around 750 AD and located south of the Great Plaza, This temple is close to 190 feet high. Temple of the Inscriptions (Temple VI): It is located south of the Mendez Causeway The roof comb contains the longest hieroglyphic recording to date. It is estimated that the construction date was around 766, AD. It is believed to have been built under the rule of Yaxkin Caan Chac, but the inscription was done during the reign of Chitam. Stela 21 and Altar 9 are located at the base of the temple. "The Lost World" Plaza of the Great Pyramid: Located southwest of the Great Plaza, this area features the largest pyramid at Tikal. It is approximately 100 feet high and, together with the structures to the west forms part of an astronomical complex To the south is the group called "Great Masks." Plaza of the Seven Temples: Located east of the Great Pyramid, it is formed by ceremonial structures of the Postclassic period a palace with five doors, from the Preclassic period can be seen covered up and used as a foundation for another building built during the Postclassic period. The building of one structure on top of an old existing structure was a common practice with the Maya. EL PETEN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES Ceibal: Located in the southeastern part of this department on the shores of La Pasion River. The most beautiful and best preserved stelae of the Postclassic period can be found here along with ceramic pieces and anthropomorphic pottery figurines. The origin of the founders is still unknown, but the first settlements date back as far as 800 BC. Yaxha: The city is composed of two sectors of rectangular structures laid in such a manner that they form streets and plazas, Yaxha is located 50 miles from Flores. The hieroglyphic inscriptions indicate that it was inhabited sometime between the Preclassic and Postclassic.  Topoxte: This Postclassic city is found in the small islands of Lake Yaxha. Its buildings are similar to those found in Mayapan, Yucatan, Mexico. Topoxte may be reached from El Remate at the end of Lake PetenItza.  Uaxactun: The oldest of the Maya cites, it is believed that this is where the Maya consolidated their culture; where their writing system was perfected and where their calendar started Located about 16 miles north of Tikal, it is accessible from Flores. Discovered in 1916, it bloomed during the Classic period. A beautiful painted mural was discovered in one of the structures and here you will also find the oldest Maya stela dated about 328 BC. El Mirador: Of all the sites in the Maya World, El Mirador has the greatest number of structures It is located four miles from the Mexican border in northern El Peten, Guatemala. Excavations are presently underway so a special permit must be obtained to visit. El Naranjo: Here you will find impressive architectural structures and numerous stelae containing priceless information about the Maya. The most important monuments are a staircase covered by hieroglyphics and a ball court. Studies reveal that this city was closely related to Tikal. Rio Azul: It is located in the far northeast corner of El Peten, close to the borders with Mexico and Belize. Rio Azul reached its peak during the late Preclassic period when it served as the administrative center of a region encompassing approximately 66 square miles and more than 500 buildings The trip from Tikal takes about five hours along rugged paths. Therefore; the site can be visited only during the dry season.  Nakun: Nakun is located 16 miles from Tikal on the road to Yaxha and can only be visited during the dry season. There are two large building complexes joined by a "sacbe" or causeway. Some of the structures have singular vaulted chambers and interesting stelae. Aguateca; Dos Pilas and Tamarindito are archaeological sites located in the Petexbatun area, El Peten southwest of Ceibal and south of Sayaxche and La Pasion River.  Aguateca: Recommended for specialists and adventure lovers, this site is magnificent. Dos Pilas was home to elite groups between 600 AD and 760 AD when it was abandoned due to constant wars. It reached its peak during the late Classic period. At the site there is evidence of various causeways and of two concentric walls as well as stelae, carvings and a network of caves. Ceramic artifacts where recently found in a tomb probably belonging to one of its rulers.  Other Archaeological Sites  Kaminal Juyu: It is located in the western section of Guatemala City (Zone 7) and is the largest site in the highlands. This important site reveals much about Maya ceramics, sculpture, architecture and engineering. Kaminal Juyu was an important city during the Preclassic and early Classic periods (800 BC to 600 AD). Iximche: Capital of the ancient MayaCakchiquel Kingdom, it is located in Tecpan 21 miles from Chimaltenango where Pedro de Alvarado established the first capital of Guatemala. It is a fortified hilltop site surrounded by a dry moat about nine feet deep, with a ball court and other structures. Mixco Viejo: Located in the northeastern of Chimaltenango, it was a fortress and the capital of the Pocoman Kingdom. Among its Postclassic structures are two small ball courts. K’umarcaaj: This ancient capital of the MayaQuiche Kingdom was also known as Utatlan. Located almost 100 miles from Guatemala City, its ruins are evidence of a magnificent past that was burned down by the conquistadors in 1524. Zaculeu: Located less than three miles from the capital of Huehuetenango. Like all the Postclassic cities it was fortified. Today, there is a small museum on the site. La Democracia Museum and Park: This site, located 22 miles from the capital of Escuintla, is considered to be one the most ancient in the Americas. It contains monumental stone heads carved by the artists of the Monte Alto culture (mid Preclassic period, 1800 BC to 250 AD). Other sites in this area are Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa, El Baul and Las Ilusiones. All have large sculptures of the Cotzumalguapa culture which flourished during the Classic period. Abaj Takalik: A recently discovered site located in El Asintal, nine miles from Retalhuleu; This is a site of impressive archaeological structures, some dating to the most ancient glyph period of the Americas. Quirigua: Located near Puerto Barrios, in the Motagua Valley, this is a site noted for its spectacular stelae, large zoomorphal stones and a temple. It was probably constructed within a period of 65 years (746810 AD). The twelve stelae reveal a detailed style of singular beauty. The largest stela is carved from one block of stone quarried by the ancient Maya. Stela "E" measures 35 feet high, 5 feet wide and 5.5 feet thick. It weighs 65 tons. The zoomorphic structures are altars that bear commemorative dates. The temple has three chambers. One bears the last carved date in Quirigua: 810 AD. After this date, the history of this site stops. In 1979, it was declared a "Monument of the World’s Heritage" by UNESCO.