HONDURAS: THE BAY ISLANDS


 Because of their incomparable natural beauty, the three idyllic Bay Islands, just 30 miles off the northern coast of Honduras, are some of the most visited places in the entire country. A coral reef, second only to Australia's Great Barrier Reef, is the major draw. As the world's second most important reef, both for its size and beauty and extending into Honduran territory from Belize, it attracts divers from all over the world.  The small archipelago has three main islands—Roatan, Guanaja and Utila—and more than 60 islets and keys. They are remnants of an underwater mountain range that was once connected to the Omoa Sierra Mountains on the mainland.  The volcanic peaks are encircled by ancient coral and limestone rock. The people of these islands are a synchronism of origins and cultures, maintaining some characteristics and unusual traditions of the English.  Their ways are derived from the successive colonial occupations and migrations to this virgin territory. These Caribbean islands are paradise on earth, with an abundant and incredible animal and plant life, and the same is true for their underwater environments. The white egrets wade in the sand-bars near the mangroves while the colorful parakeets chatter. We cannot forget the native yellow mussels, the opossum or iguanas.  The agouti is a strange rodent that resembles a rabbit; it inhabits the hills and in the brushwood. If you get to know the natural footpath on Baily Cay, north of Roatan, you will be able to find all these creatures and others, like the white-faced monkey, the spider monkey, and huge red macaws.

As for fishing, there are plenty of needlefish, sailfish, wahoo, mackerel, pike, and barracuda. One may rent boats and fishing equipment on the islands, and even take part in international tournaments held every summer in Roatan. It was precisely here, in the Bay Islands, in the waters off Guanaja, where Columbus, during his fourth voyage to the New World, ran across a commercial canoe traveling from a land called Maiam. This encounter is considered the first contact between the European and American cultures. All the nautical and underwater activities are possible in the paradise that forms the Bay Islands. Small cayucos, or motorized canoes, traverse the emerald waters of the quiet lagoons. The islands are bordered by white sandy beaches dotted with elegant, sleepy palms. 

Small island towns are characterized by picturesque houses on stilts, bunched together at the edge of the sea, facing the waves that break on the coral reef. Travelers will find the comforts of civilization in the tourist lodgings and hotels. Accommodations here are unique, and they all maintain an island atmosphere. Throughout the island one finds old bottles of rum and other relics left behind by the pirates. But the true treasure is before one's very eyes, the natural splendor and marvel of these islands. To paraphrase the Grand Admiral when he arrived in these American lands, they truly do deserve to be called the most beautiful land that human eyes will ever see. 

The largest and most populated of the group of islands is Roatan, with its 10,565 inhabitants. It is 30 miles from the coast of Honduras, at the same latitude as La Ceiba. The island is 28 miles long and becomes quite narrow at one end. A spine of highlands comprise the island's center, the highest point reaching 1,207 feet. Roatan has an international airport. Good paved roads take travelers from tourism centers and coastal villages to the small town of Coxen Hole, named after the famous pirate. It is the largest town on the island. Coxen Hole has good hotels and restaurants with a wide selection of dishes. After dinner, you may want to dance at the discotheque in French Harbor. The coral reef encircling Roatan is notorious for its coral gardens near the coast. On the very eastern part of the island, they unite and form one point that faces Utila Island, which is the closest to the mainland. The extreme eastern side of Roatan is mostly mangroves, bordering a narrow canal that separates it from Helene, a neighboring island. One must pass by Helene to reach Morat, a green hillock rising from a turquoise sea.

While Utila Island's handsome beaches and spectacular underwater sights are a main attraction, it also has a grouping of picturesque houses perched on the edge of the sea: East Harbor. There, fishing is a way of life for many of the natives, many of whom may break championship records with their amazing fish catches. Two other islets that are interesting are Cochino Grande and Pequeno —also known as the Cochino Cays, just 11 miles off the mainland. As it only shelters a small fishing village, the Cays are a veritable paradise for those who like tranquillity and the welcoming nature of the warm Caribbean islands.

Then, the island of Barbareta follows, a place where nature has surpassed its own beauty. The privately owned Barbareta is open to the public. It's a piece of paradise on earth—a postcard of green, tropical forest surrounded by beaches, with strings of palms washed by crystalline waters and a mountain topped by authentic indigenous monticulus. In addition, just off the coast, is a trio of sandy islets—Pigeons Cays. Their waters are ideal for snorkeling, and the beaches are wonderful places for picnics. Equally attractive are Trunk Turtle Bay Brach and Jade Beach, on the northern coast of the barely deserted islands, which are among the most natural in the entire world.

Some 11 miles from Barbareta is Guanaja, the second largest of the Bay Islands, its highest point reaching about 1,700 feet above sea level. It is shaped like an arrow. This mountainous island has a coastline dotted with sleepy palms; the finishing touches are its hills covered with pine trees. On Guanaja, there are only three residential areas. One, the village of Bonacca, is on an artificial islet just off the island. The people of Bonacca use canoes as transportation, as the houses are built on piles on the water. Guanaja Island has a landing strip, but lacks roads. Pine forests, beautiful beaches and numerous rivers—perfect for exploring. The sea is a fantastic turquoise color everywhere, inviting deep sea divers into its depths. The place is considered by experts as one of the world's best diving spots. The reefs off these islands have enormous coral formations with more than 65 species of rocky polyps leading to steep cliffs, most of them drop-offs. Furthermore, both inside and outside the walls of the coral reefs, an incredible variety of marine flora and fauna thrive—sponges, seafans, marine whips, and deep water fans. Marine life from both the coral reefs and deep oceans abound in these waters. The islands maintain the richest collection of coral pillars in the world, In the case of Roatan, both of the island's coasts have continuous opportunities for scuba diving.

The coral reef on the north is almost a solid barrier with just a few ruptures near the coast. Perhaps the main attraction is off the island’s extreme eastern part, where steep slopes occur in the southern and another in the northern part of the reef. They are separated by a narrow meseta. Some of the most popular diving spots include Half Moon Way Wall, with a wide variety and colorful selections of sponges; West End Wall, with a dive that is absolutely vertical; Bear's Den, where, under the sea's surface, a coral cavern winds under an enormous reef. South of Roatan, the reefs are impressive; generally, they are close to the coastline. Nevertheless, further out, another phenomena frequently occurs. The reefs join together with islets and sometimes they open up at the entrances to bays and lagoons. Another unusual topographical feature on the great reef is created by the presence of a sandbar that is pretty far off the coast, where the Coxen Hole International Airport is. There are impressive opportunities for diving there, sought after and frequented by those "in the know." Such is the case of the Valley of the Kings, a coral crevice filled with sponges, or the Prince Albert Shipwreck, an island freight ship that sank to a depth of 56 feet. Still another is Mary's Place, which is reminiscent of a spectacular underwater Colorado canyon. Despite these very poorly described marvels, there are places on the islands that have barely been explored. In the case of Utila Island, few scuba divers have been in its waters, although it is known that acres of coral gardens are in its depths. In fact, skin and scuba divers are the main protagonists in any underwater adventure. At any hour of the day or during night dives, these fortunate people have a whole different world to admire or photograph. Finfish, octopus, seahorses, and others await them.

One of the most important areas for scuba diving off the coasts of Barbareta is an almost mile long fall off the southern coast, known as Barbareta Wall. The coral reefs there are complete with enormous barrel and basket sponges, along with a myriad of different kinds of fish. As for Guanaja, its northern coast offers divers a great coral barrier leading to the depths, but descents in some places begin at about 80 feet. Many of the sites are well visited, such as in the case of a series of medium-high walls and a labyrinth of coralline canyons with lava formations inside the main reef. However, the most interesting dives in Guanaja are Jim's Silverlode, Black Rock Canyon and Devil's Cauldron, where thousands of groupers meet in the winter to spawn. The Jado Trader is the best sunken ship a modern freight ship, intact, home to thousands of fish and sometimes even to sea turtles. Expert scuba divers will find thousands of interesting routes in the reefs. 

Complete diving gear and equipment can be rented in the islands, Novices can opt to take beginning courses at any of the tourist complexes on the islands. Also, a professionally maintained decompression chamber is on Roatan. In order to better protect the reefs from occasional damage from anchors, there are permanent places to tie boats to. Underwater visibility is generally between 80 to 1 00 feet, and during most of the year, water temperature is between 75 and 85 degrees F. Numerous national marine parks have been established in the area, like in Barbareta and Guanaja, as well as a reserve off the northern part of Roatan. Guanaja's protects close to 90 percent of Barbareta, including its surrounding reefs.