Into the Heart of Borneo - 9D/8N

Iban Hunters photo courtesy of Pandaw River CruisesBorneo, the third largest island in the world after Greenland and Australia, has one of the most diverse eco systems on the planet, its primary rain forest home to a vast number of species of flora and fauna. Now part of Eastern Malaysia, Sarawak was ruled for exactly one hundred years by the Brooke family, known as the Raja Brookes, and only joined the British Empire after the war, gaining independence in 1966.

The Rajang River, at 640km is the longest river in Malaysia, flows across Borneo from Sarawak into Indonesian Kalimantan. Though well know to many from Redmon O’Hanlon’s classic Into the Heart of Borneo, there is very little tourism here due to the river’s remoteness and lack of facilities. The scenery is magnificent – a total jungle experience with the rainforest tumbling into the fast flowing river. The Rajang is navigable on a ship of Pandaw’s size for at least 250km until the Pelagus Rapids, and further on its main tributary the Baleh River. The river is peopled with the Iban, headhunters till the 1950s, whose unique long house culture survives well to this day, blending well animist tradition with modernity.

There is much to do and see upriver, whether just gazing at the amazing scenery or visiting long houses traditional and modern. In these river towns we can explore the architectural vestiges of the Brooke Raj. Jungle treks, for all levels, are a must as are long boat trips to the Pelagus rapids. Wildlife is in abundance and crocodiles, monitor lizards and the hornbill (national bird of Sarawak) common sights. Downriver, the prosperous Chinese city of Sibu with its old shop houses, markets and friendly inhabitants, is a calm reflection of an old China that probably no longer exists in mainland China. Sibu with its rich surrounding farmlands and tropical climate is an important agricultural area.

Kuching photo courtesy of Pandaw River CruisesSibu is the world’s biggest producer of pepper and at Sareiki we will visit pepper farms, fruit plantations that boast seven kilogram pineapples and a host of other exotic fruits. The sea port of Thanjung Manis is a centre of traditional songkat textile production and we will visit weaving workshops. Sibu is well served with several daily flights to Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu, Brunei and Kuching (Air Asia and MAS) thus connecting with international flights to Europe or other Asian cities.
The most delightful city in South-East Asia, Kuching, offers a glimpse of what Singapore or Bangkok must have been like half a century ago. Laid back, yet full of hip cafés and bars, the traditional Chinese shop houses as yet untrammelled by greedy developers. The serene Sarawak River flows through the city centre, flanked by gorgeous Brooke Raj palaces, courts and a glistening white fort that marks the first White Raja’s landing.

The RV Orient

This brand new, five star ship was launched in Saigon in September 2008 and is in the traditional colonial style, unique to all Pandaw ships. There are 30 luxury staterooms. The staterooms are the most celebrated features of the ship. Each is finished in brass and teak with 170 square feet of space. All open into a promenade deck with private outside seating. The staterooms feature an en-suite shower, mini-safe, mini bar, DVD on demand, room service, and wi-fi. There is a coctail bar on the observation deck and lounge area with lecture theater on the lower deck. Amenities include a spa, fitness area, laundry, bakery, fully equipped galley and refrigeration units; air conditioning for all inside areas.

Departures: The 1st, 10th, and 20th of each month, July through December

Aare River photo by courtesy of Pandaw River CruisesItinerary

  • Day 1 Sibu - Transfer from airport; board ship in the bustling city port set close to the local markets and temples. Free time to explore the town on foot with its attractive streets of old Chinese shop houses, redolent of Malacca or Penang but without the tourists. Sibu is a big port with sea going ships coming up and off loading. From here the fast express boats depart for the interior.
  • Day 2 Kanowit - Cast off at dawn and proceed up the mighty Rajang. Morning stop to visit rattan workshops. Here the river is still wide and full of shipping. At the river station of Kanowit we visit the Brooke Raj Fort Emma, of wooden construction and amazingly surviving intact after 150 years. Explore deeper inland by long boat up the Kanowit River and voluntary jungle trek back to the Pandaw moored at Kanowit.
  • Day 3 Kapit - Morning walk through Kapit; the last major administrative post on the Rajang River dating from the days of the White Rajahs. Visit of the Teresang Market, full of intriguing fresh jungle products and a fascinating mixture of people. It also offers a variety of local ‘kuih’ (cakes), the Chinese temple and Fort Silvia, originally called Kapit Ford. Built in 1880 by Rajah Charles Brooke to prevent the Iban from moving upriver and fighting with the Orang Ulu. In 1924 a peacekeeping ceremony between the infighting tribes (Iban, Kayan, Kenyah and Kajang) was held here.
    In the afternoon, visit of the handicraft and tattoo museum and then continue to a traditional Longhouse. We will experience the traditional “miring” (goodwill) ceremony, taste the ‘tuak” (local rice wine) and will be able to witness the ‘ngajat’ (Iban warrior dance) and perhaps take part in it.
  • Day 4 The Baleh River - Just above Kapit we turn up the main tributary of the Rajang, the Batang Baleh navigable for a Pandaw for another day’s sail. We will cruise through the most narrow and scenic part of the journey, through the deep jungle we will see forgotten and modern longhouse and rice fields on the hills. Logging is strictly controlled by the Sarawak government, who has a strict replanting program. We will visit a logging camp and stop overnight at Nagamujong village with its long house, school, clinic and church. We will also see loading points for coal coming from mines deep in the jungle.

    • Itinerary Map

  • Day 5 Pelagus Rapids - Return down the Baleh to rejoin the Rajang and proceed another 40km towards the Pelagus Rapids. This section of the river is incredibly beautiful with thousands of islands, reefs and shoals. Navigation here can be difficult depending on water levels and it may be necessary to transfer to long boats to continue our journey. Full day at Pelagus resort, designed in the longhouse style, is overlooking the famous Pelagus rapids. There will be opportunity to trek in and around the resort through the primary rainforest so rich in fauna and flora, otherwise inaccessible to the casual visitors. We will take lunch at the resort and in the afternoon further possibilities to trek in the area or to relax at the resort’s own swimming pool.
  • Day 6 Song - Cruising downstream the Rajang River and we will stop in the early morning to visit a rubber plantation. Then continue to Song .A small river station between Kanowit and Kapit. We stop here to make a boat trip up the Katibas River and the opportunity to trek part of the way back to Song. Continue downstream through evening.
  • Day 7 Sarikai - In the morning a quick stop at the pineapple island to get a taste of the famous Sarikai pineapple. Then continue with the boat to Sarikai. Explore the village by your own, with the possibility of visiting the mosque, market and to buy the famous pak cheng (herbal soup).
    Afternoon visit of the Sebangkoi deer farm and stop at a longhouse with pepper plantation.
  • Day 8 Thanjung Manis - We now enter the Rajang delta area with its rich agricultural life. Stop at a Malay village to visit the famous Songkat weaving workshop. It counts the royal family and Sultan of Brunei amongst their costumers.
  • Day 9 Sibu - Dock in Sibu early morning and disembark and transfer to airport for onward flights.

Optional Add-ons