The continent’s fourth largest city is a delightful blending of 19th century Europe, some Spanish colonial and, increasingly, modem architecture, both downtown and in newly erected suburbs served by an efficient subway system. Expansion has been mostly northward where some plush hotels, restaurants and shops have sprung up. You can get there quickly by subway, a fun experience and thrifty-only 10 cents to ride in modem graffiti-free cars. Hi-rise garden apart­ments dot the landscape at the end of the various subway lines. Both new and old residential sections have tree-shaded avenues, gardens are beautifully landscaped, ablaze with color. Gardens along the streets feature an amazing array of gorgeous plants, flowers, trees and shrubs. With a hovering backdrop of snowcapped mountains, Santiago at 1800 ft. beckons the air traveler with one of the most dramatic views to be seen anywhere. Divided from East to West by the Mapocho River, the capital of Chile lays claim to more than six hills within a total area of approximately 15 square miles. Unique among cities anywhere are the two central hills of Santa Lucia, originally a Spanish fortress, and 1,145-ft. San Cristobal, both beautifully landscaped and affording magnificent views of Santiago’s wide, straight streets, boulevards and plazas. Santiago deserves your attention for a minimum of three days; for city sightseeing and dining, the day trip to Vina Del Mar, or Hacienda Los Lingues, another maybe to Portillo. 

Santiago is a participation city. In the major downtown shopping area, many streets have become paseos (walkways with no auto traffic), nicely landscaped and lighted, decorated with sculptures; benches are provided so you can watch the passing parade. It’s a chic, leisurely air for the casual or determined shopper. There are boutique-filled arcades fashioned from state­ly colonial buildings. Cultural events have mushroomed; art and handcraft exhibits, concerts, drama and dance presentations take place most of the year. Shopping here is as exciting as in Buenos Aires and Rio yet different, ranging as it does from regional handcrafts to sophisticated styling in ready-to-wear clothing. Traditional downtown shopping for better merchandise centers in numerous shops on Huerfanos and other streets near Hotel Carrera. Providencia is a fashionable uptown shopping street. Farther uptown in beautiful residential areas are two huge malls, Parque Arauco and Apumanque, with splendid, multi-level arrays of shops. Most unusual is Caracol Bucharest in the Providencia area - a mall devoted entirely to antiques of every description. Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, Lastarria 3211 in a rebuilt colonial square, has interesting antique shops, book stores and art galleries. In the bohemian Bellavista Quarter are lapis lazuli shops and factory. This semi-precious stone is found in the high Andes north of Santiago - and but few other places in the world. Small, highly polished, deep blue stones are the most expensive; larger stones are used for high fashion jewelry in sterling silver or 18k settings. A downtown store, Lapislazuli at Huerfanos 1160, carries stunning jewelry. Leather goods, including hi-style shoes and boots, are no longer cheap yet still good buys compared to Stateside prices.  

Government sponsored CEMA CHILE is the place for hand-crafts. Housed in a former convent, it offers huge assortments of hand-woven rugs, ponchos and blankets, copper and enameled copper ware, silver ceremonial ornaments of Mapuche Indian design, ceramics and pottery; both modem and primitive; latter includes replicas of Diaguita pottery, several thousands years old, unearthed in northern Chile. And for those not traveling to Easter Island, here’s where those fascinating wood carvings can be bought.

While in Bellavista, check out Galleria El Cerro, Lopez de Bello 135, where Chilean artists show their versions of classical masters. Nearby Galeria Nocturna (open late evenings only) exhibits works of young, offbeat artists. Shopping hours are normally 1000 to 2000 Monday thru Friday, 0900 to 1400 on Sat. - except in the malls which are usually open to 2100 thru out the week. On the other hand, Chilean-designed and manufactured sports­wear, particularly knits and cotton T-shirts for men and women, are extremely smart (and colorful) buys. So are wool and mohair ski jackets and ponchos, wood carvings, Chilean wines and modem art. Don’t miss browsing at those attractive Downtown arcades. 

Entirely apart from continental specialties, the natural bounty of the sea and farmlands makes for some interesting, unusual dining. The adventurous should taste these Chilean specialties: locus (abalone the size and shape of fat clams) and chupe de loco (stew); machas, razor clams (raw or baked); steamed cholgas (mussels) and choritos (small mussels); panqueques de centollas (crepes with crabmeat filling); congrio (conger eel; ugly looking but delicious when baked, fried or stewed); gambas (large, deep water shrimp); sweet langostinos (tiny rock lobsters) and above all, a rare treat (according to Chileans), erizos (tennis ball-size sea urchins). Chilean chefs have ways of coaxing flavor into meat and fowl as well as seafood. Particularly appetizing are kid and suckling pig. As are a wide variety of delicious domestic vegetables and fruits. 

There’s an elegance about restaurant dining, the care with which tables are laid for each course, that’s reminiscent of the best of Europe. At lunch, cafes-and bars are jammed for 3 hours while dinner is, of course, late (from 9:30 on) if you wish to dine fashionably. Labeled Chilean wines, many of which are excellent, are modestly priced, a carafe of house wine downright cheap. Besides alcoholic content, wine labels must show quality ratings: Gran Vino para Banquetes (best), Gran Vino and Reservado. Chile is famed for its cabernet sauvignon reds and many of its whites, especially rieslings. 

Many of the top restaurants are uptown off Av. Providencia, about a 20-min. taxi ride from downtown but we have always enjoyed Hotel Carrera’s attractive rooftop restaurant (both food and view). You can get a good dry martini (called clarito) most anywhere, but try the small yet potent Pisco Sour (without egg); Chileans are especially fond of Pisco Tacam (Pisco brandy, with lima de Pica and sugar). Imported liquors are not too expensive, domestic vodka, gin and cognac quite inexpensive and good.  Specify coffee coffee if you don’t want normally served Nescafe. Since no service charge is added to the tab, even in the top spots, a 10% to 20% tip is expected.